Dr. Nuri Guldali, a Turkish geologist from the M.T.A., Ankara, accompanied the expedition for its duration and helped us greatly with his expert knowledge. Sitting around the fire on the final night we asked him if he could suggest any other promising areas in Turkey he knew of where we could search for caves. He told ushe had recently studied the geology of a karst region South of the town of Cide, about 180km east of Zonguldak on the coast of the Black Sea. Whilst there the locals had informed him of many caves "up in the hills". This sounded just the sort of thing we wanted to hear.
Upon returning to Blighty, it was decided to run a small expedition to this area for June/July 1990. A bit of research informed us the last British expedition to visit this area of limestone was a Trent Polytechnic/Sheffield University venture in 1978.
They explored some of the large river caves in the Zonguldak region, but remained some 180km away from the area we intended to visit. The BCRA library showed little evidence of any foreign groups having visited the area South of Cide.
This, the 1:50,000 geological map of the area kindly provided by Nuri, fond memories of Turkish hospitality and the inability to say "No!" resulted in a team originally of four cavers snowballing to an overwhelming membership of eight;
Phil "Holy Lamb" Baarda (Expedition botanist/beard)
Ian "Where's me ...." Benson (Expedition goon)
Martin "half-human, half-carpet" Clark (Expedition ?)
Steve "The Rancid T-shirt" Chapman (Expedition grin)
Wilf "Bad Air Disease" Holland (Expedition hair)
Pete "No time to breathe" Kay (Expedition no hair)
Don "The Cheese" Kenyon (Expedition hunk)
Jo "Grin 'n Bear It" Topham (Expedition token female)
Jo and Don were with us for the first two weeks of the trip, while the rest enjoyed four weeks in Turkey with the last week spent following up other leads further west along the Black Sea coast.
Owing to us flying out to Turkey this expedition had to be a far more lightweight one than the 1989 trip which had at its service a Ford Transit filled with all sorts of useless junk. It was therefore decided to buy virtually all food, pans, stoves, fuel, carbide etc. out in Turkey ....as well as being far cheaper than purchasing this gear in England it was also more fun and saved a great deal of baggage on the flight.
Since this was only a reconnaissance trip, nosponsors were approached, apart from the Sports Council and the University of Lancaster, to whom we are very grateful for financial assistance.
So on June 26th 1990, we set off......
Photo - Scene at the River Irmak
June 27th
Totally unable to afford the hire quotes for a car without selling Jo
(which seemed a little unfair as we'd only just arrived) it was decided
that we all should jump on a bus to Cide and take it from there. Thus
from Topkapi bus station, a wierd place outside central Istanbul, at
7am, to the major industrial town of Zonguldak at 2pm where a shopping
jaunt procured much of our necessary hard and software (including
carbide). A further bus then took us inland to Bartin and yet another
restless night was spent on a bus station's floor (budget accommodation).
June 28th
By 8am we had arrived via assorted precarious roads and stunning scenery
at Cide.
Once we started waving around our geological map and talking about "magarasi" (caves, pronounced Maaras) in our very best Turkish(!) the locals eventually got the message. A dolmus was hired for about £16 to take us and our gear to the village of Derebucagi (see Geology map), we also met for the first time Cevdet Usta, a local chemist who spoke fluent English and turned out to be a valuable and knowledgeable friend.
He told us that the Moslem festival of the sacrifices (the Kurban Bayrami, see reference section) would begin in a few days and that for this nine day periodpublic transport and taxis would be very infrequent and the opening hours of shops greatly reduced.
Armed with this information our dolmus set off with an impressive crunch of gears and a cloud of dust only to develop a 'terminal' differential problem after about 10km. Thanks to a passing truck and subsequent open top trip, we finally arrived in Derebucagi, a small village nestling on the slopes of a steep valley 27km by track from Cide.
After at least partly breaching the language barrier with the villagers and hiring a guide for the following day to take us to Ilgarini magara we were treated to typical Turkish hospitality... food, kip in one of the villagers houses, ....even our vastly increased gear was toted around for us. The fun really started when the army arrived (with very large and shiny guns) and informed us that permits for Ilgarini cave had to be obtained from the Archaeology Museum at Kastamonu (6 hrs bus ride from Cide), that no access would be granted elsewhere on the hill until we'd gained these permits (15,000TL (£3) each, plus transport), and that all 8 of us had to go to Kastamonu. Despite trying to argue the point, we gave up and were fiddled to sleep by a raki-inspired Turkish moustache with male attachment.
Photo - Dolmus, temporarily embarrassed
We HAD to catch the 6am bus, we WERE a little pissed off.
June 29th
5am...and not only was the bus not as timetabled,but it was
yesterday's doomed vehicle, somehow reincarnated. Surprisingly it made
it all the way back to Cide (with our previous nights pan of curry
strapped to the roof). Here it was decided to visit the town's army
post to confirm our position once and for all.
We eventually met with the unit's C.O., K. Rifki Ayan who eventually declared that we needed no permit. When we asked him about the mean fat army man from the village and his insistence to the contrary the boss replied with the classic quote;
"Him Boss, me big Boss". Spontaneous handshaking all round and much relief.
Invited into Lt. Ayan's office we were 'cayed' to bladder burst, and were privileged to scrutinize a large scale map of the area. Such kindness was repaid by Walt knocking his cay over Rifki Ayan and his maps. We thought that would be the end of Walt but our hopes of being invited to a 'real' execution and inheriting his jammers proved unfounded.
With revitalised spirits, via a celebratory meal, we retuned to Derebucagi with a letter from Cevdet to the villagers explaining our situation and aims. We were then given permission to camp in the yard of the village's old school.
Whilst setting up camp in this idyllic spot Phil took exception to something and began to discreetly throw up, as did Don not much later.
Photo - Camp, with Akkaya in background
June 30th
Phil, Don and Jo felt remained at the camp to be illand occupied
themselves being novelties for the holidaying school kids, and having
scoff and invitations for meals thrust upon them. The rest of us got up
at the crack, or rather wail of dawn (the village mosque having very
powerful speakers, a very bad wailer and being situated just up the hill
from our campsite) for a prearranged 5 am rendezvous with a guide to take
us to Ilgarini, the only cave the villagers of Derebucagi knew of in the
area.
After a couple of hours waiting it became obvious that our guide had forgotten us and his place was substituted by a jolly farmer whom we happened upon, the trip got further waylaid as a result of our new guide insisting we dined with him. Thus the trek up the slopes of Toprakini to Ilgarini occurred during the heat of the day, complete with grossly over extended stomachs.After 2.5hrs of steep ascent through fields then dense woodland broken by rests at various springs and cherry trees we reached the top of the plateau at around 1100m. The good track we had been following then petered out into a virtually invisible and overgrown path through the dense forest vegetation (beech, rhododendrons, bastard-plants etc.) The invitation to pass Martin's disproportionately large rucksack onto the sprinting guide definitely helped to keep both within sightand Ilgarini entrancewas eventually confronted (see Cave A).
Pete and Martin, after a brief once over, left Walt, Steve and Ian to begin surveying Ilgarini. Camp had to be set up in the airy cave entrance due to the dense vegetation outside. It would appear from the log that there was a low survey:eating/brewing-up ratio. But credit to them, a lot of effort went into creating a varied menu for four days from pasta, Colmans sauce mixes, milk powder, cheese, sugar, raisins and lettuce substituted with the local nettles, beetles etc.
Photo - Skull Cave, plus residents
July 1st
The newly appointed guides (Pete and Martin) led the remainder of the
(just about recovered) team up to Ilgarini at some ridiculously early
hour.
Upon arriving at Ilgarini and meeting up the bloated 'survey team', Pete, Don and Martin discovered and surveyed Skull Cave (Cave B). Phil went liverwort hunting and Jo went ill and pined for a view through the trees.
In the evening, a fire was lit at the entrance which filled the upper levels of the cave with smoke for the next few days. Owing to the finite water supply (a Roman well about 40m inside the cave), the fact that Jo and Phil were bored and the inherent problems of looking for caves in a dense temperate jungle, it was decided that the group would again split and the new arrivals turn 'back to civilisation' late the next day after following up a few more leads, leaving the original survey team with more supplies and more room to smell (fast!).
Photo - Looking towards Ilgarini entrance from the well area
July 2nd
Pete and Don explored and surveyed 'Snail Cave', other people looked
around a bit, Phil found some more liverworts and the survey team
surveyed (after their usual lie in). As planned the new arrivals left
for civilisation in the late afternoon.
Upon returning to the tent with carbide supplies exhausted Ian wrote in the log;
"....and we still have to survey to the end of the cave. Tomorrow Pete'll bring some more carbide and scran and we'll see what impression we can make on the jobwith a full days sleeping and eating.. Only solution, to sit by fire and cay until Pete comes."
July 3rd
Walt wrote in the log;
"After Pete had rudely awakened us from our love nest at 8am, we dutifully arose and a breakfast for four was arranged (pasta + milk + raisins....yummy!). Then Pete emptied out his rucksack to reveal carbide, ekmek (bread) and teabags, the holy triumvirate who were to sustain us until the ordeal of the SURVEY WAS COMPLETE!!!
Pete hung around until we had fettled up, no doubt concerned at our previous late get-offs and we soon found ourselves at the lastly surveyed point, where a wide traverse exposed more leads...."
And later;
"So after 9hrs surveying, a decent dinner down out necks, the sun
setting and the beasticles beginning to rustle, we weigh the situation
up:
carbide ~12 man hours @ normal usage
food ~1/2 pints worth of dried milk
~100gm spaghetti
3 packet sauce mixes:
chicken, bolognaise, bourgignon
~100gm sugar
4 stock cubes (vegetable)
5 KMC's
In the light of these observations, it has been decided to do the photo trip tonight, so as to make the most use of carbide and food.
Photo - Chapel remains
Main problems..slave units: crap, a waste of time and death mud everywhere.
While Pete wandered up and down to Ilgarini and back, Don, Jo and Phil went shopping in Cide to stock up for the Bayrami, Martin slobbed.
July 4th
The trio set off down the plateau having completed the surveying,
arriving back in Derebucagi 3hrs later "bloody hot and thirsty".
Everyone (except Martin) had wandered further south to the small village of Acina where they werecontinuously fed and watered by the locals, swam in a gloriousriver, and looked (from a distance of 1km or so) for resurgences in a huge gorge which dissected the Akkaya plateau further south.
One could wax lyrical about the river, scenery,and hospitality and the five fattened explorers duly did so upon arriving back at camp. With the group reunited and Ilgarini 'done', it was decided to move on to this paradise and have a better look down the gorge etc. The evening was spent watching the fireflies dance, listening to the frogs and donkeys croak and 'breathing fire' with a little help from the Turkish Vodka.
July 5th
Party day (as long as we got Ian wearing long trousers: no easy feat !).
This day was a major Kurban Bayrami crawl. Wewandered from house to
house eating and eating again what seemed all the dead sheep in
Derebucagi. We finally ended up at the village Chief's house, where we
thought we had been invited though he did seem a little surprised to see
us. Transport was arranged to Acina for the early afternoon via a very
ill transit and/or very bad driver?
After a scary journey which included a great deal of walking (as the transit struggled up the slightest of gradients) and a great deal of screaming from the drivers 'copilot' we arrived at Acina. Camp was set up in someones rear garden so that the 'bears didn't get us'and we continued to eat.
July 6th
Whilst the majority continued with the Bayrami in Hamitli(purely for
the sake of public relations and information gathering), Don, Jo and
Pete and a local lad went gorge exploring; Pete wrote;
"Unfortunately we were dressed for total immersion by the cool waters, but our guide kept us bone dry via a variety of scrambling, lunging and jumping over and around the river.This inevitably led to a very severe melting session of which Jo suffered the most in her neoprene sauna suit.
The gorge got steeper and the flow faster until a series of long, deep and fast-flowing pools were reached with the gorge walls sheer and huge above us. Donning our life jackets we pushed onwards. After about an hours' struggling against the flow and 2km from the bridge, Area 2 was located".
The eating team returned with stomachs abloat after a further six meals, all in different houses, tales of caves, and hails of victory (10-7) in the unofficial England v. Turkey football international.
July 7th
A previously organised lift into Cide to go to Cevdet's son's party left
without us due to a misunderstanding over times. With no further leads
to follow up around Acina, except for Area 3, it was decided to move our
camp to Hamitli,2km's further down the valley (visited the previous day
by the eating team), (SeeArea 4).
The walk involved three crossings of the River Irmak which when loaded to the gunnels with kit proved to be at times quite exciting. However, we were ably guided by Hasan Bay, a Turkish student first met at Hamitli by the eating team the previous day. Hasan proved to be an invaluable help over the next few days as a friend, caver and interpreter.
Upon arriving at Hamitli, a Bayrami wagon was pounced upon to take us to Calkoy, another 2km down the valley but with the joys of three shops, a Post Office and A BAR that sold real beer! (or at least the Turkish version of same). After setting up camp on the village green, we hit Calkoy for further eating and talking to the locals. Another cave was spoken of and the lamb was avoided.
A lift was organised here to pick up the remainder of our gear from Acina and Ian, who had also been left behind suffering from an overdose of dead sheep and their associated bacteria.
The evening was spent in our newly found bar watching the World cup on TV and saying farewell to Don and Jo who were leaving the next day for Istanbul if they could get the necessary bus tickets or lift. Which, as they were clashing with the end of the Bayrami was by no means a certainty.
July 8th
Hasan came to our rescue and by 6.10am Don and Jo wereon the dolmus to
Cide where they had further tickets for the very crowded 1pm bus to
Istanbul. Their leaving was a highly emotional experience at least for
Phil and Pete who the only ones who could be bothered getting up for it.
Later in the day our previously arranged guide, a fine old man returned from his shepherding to take Phil, Pete, Steve, Walt and Hasan to Onune Magara (see Cave E). Ian was still being ill and Martin was trying to be.
The evening was spent at our local Cay house, with its fine owner, Mustapha Kus, and later on at the bar, where the second half of a very boring world Cup final flickered on and off a Stone Age television.
July 9th
Wilf and Phil off at 5am to do the shopping at Cide. The rest (except
Martin who appeared to be permanently comatose by now) set off to Hamitli
to visit Cave D which we had been promised by the locals to be at least
11/2km long. Prior to leaving camp we were visited by the 'Mad Witch of
Chandibi',as Steve writes;
"An old hobbling woman came wandering towards our tents, cackling to herself and pointing to the sky. She looked at our tents, she looked into the sky (which at that time was fairly clear) and then burst into fits of laughter waving her hands about. Perhaps she was a knowledgeable woman, able to see what was to come, BUT maybe she was a witch and set a curse upon us."
After exploring Cave D, we set off for an afternoon's cave hunting, based on rumours of one last spotted 20 years previously by Hasan's grandfather. It had become very humid and wet and so Ian, Steve and Pete sat and watched a hairy caterpillar and a shit-kicking cricket, while Hasan, in his borrowed wetsuit ran around through the undergrowth and up and down the valleys looking for the previously mentioned hole (it wasn't found).
Phil and Walt returning from Cide spent the afternoon in an area around Saricam where a huge cave entrance they'd seen from several kilometres away turned out to be a large plant!
Hasan left for Istanbul.
In the early evening the storm broke. We sat in our tents and watched it creep up on us over the hills and valleys and then it hit. The field became a river and our tent bottoms either water beds, or, as in Walt and Phil's case part of the river with frantically bailing out, between calming swigs of Raki as the huge hailstones battered down on the tents
In the height of the storm Mustapha (the mad Cay man) came to try and rescue us and, after much physical struggling he dragged us into his tea house (we didn't want to go) which itself was seriously damp. We were again plied with food and drink. Phil and Walt giving up with their tent, left it to sink and took abode in the more solid and waterproof mosque for the night.
July 10th
Damage report from the storm
1) Walt lost a little plastic thing off the end of his tent.
2) Lots of soggy stuff that doesn't really count (passports, money,
clothes, sleeping bags, everything).
3) One lying down tree that doesn't look so well a few feet in front
of Steve and Martin's tent that also doesn't look so well.
4) Aqueous loo roll.
5) Rather less carbide/Rather more spent carbide.
6) Stew increased in size (4") but seems a little weaker.
7) Lost 1/4l milk.
8) Phil's pre-soaking washing got 'hail'stone washed.
9) Raki has decreased in volume.
10) A bit of Kendal Mint Cake in the bottom of Phil's rucksack has
dissolved.
11) A little bit of mosque carpet slightly damper from where Phil
and Walt slept.
After assessing the incredibly minor damage we'd actually suffered, and
leaving our clobber out to dry, we got on with the rest of the day which
was:
1) Wilf desired to remain at camp, replacing Martin as the sloth, and
make another start on the Ilgarini survey, Martin became a carpet.
2) Photo trip, Pete, Steve, and Ian in Onune magara plus a combined
biological excursion.
3) Phil, went to Loc, botanising and asking about caves on the way.
4) Tick removing from Steve's abdomen, hot fork attempted, and then red
hot tweezers and antiseptic.....conclusion and prognosis.....effective
treatment, mouthparts of said tick removed with body.
July 11th
One of the outcomes of yesterday's activities was the breakthrough of
'Phil's Cave', Walt wrote of this discovery;
"Situated to the NW of the picturesque hamlet of Loc, where the simple people merrily toil their days through the ekmek groves, tiptoeing around the middens left by the water buffaloes, this cave was hinted at by an old wizard called Martin, who was just recovering from a cold, when engaged in a spell-casting competition with Phil.
Leading him by the hand through the sacred coppiced woods, Martin uttering his Turkish incantations to the protecting thickets around the entrance, which dutifully fell away...
Lo!, the promised alcove was revealed, Phil hesitantly pressing forward, trowel in hand to protect against the feared balrog (aye), beast of Ilgarini, sent to foil the efforts of the explorers. Then was revealed the treasures of the cave, the golden sand running through his sandals."
Walt, Pete and Phil revisited this cave and further caves in this area on this morning (see Area 6).
With no further leads we again had no option but to move on. Transport was ordered via a Turkish telephone, but alas without Hasan to aid us the language problem loomed once more and we were faced with a single taxi for 6 people and a ridiculous amount of badly packed assorted junk. However, after six hours of ferrying we were once again all reunited at Cide's Mocamp and civilisation.
The first taxi load (Phil, Steve, and Pete) spent a pleasant afternoon in Cide eating, getting shoes and boots repaired, having shaves and nose and ear hairs cut and trying to sort out a guide for a trip to a cave we had been told about by Cevdet. The evening was spent with Cevdet and family getting merrily pissed. Hacet Kayasi
July 12th
Steve, Ian and Martin set off to Cevdet's shop to meet the arranged
guide to take them to Hacet Kayasi (Cave I) - Walt, Phil and Pete
continued to eat, wash, change money, draw up surveys and generally
slob. Phil hit the Raki and Brindi (Brandy) after a frantic's morning's
phone calling to Englandas he tried to find Cevdet's nephew somewhere
to stay in London - a squat being finally located.
Meanwhile, the intrepid explorers armed with £4 worth of biscuits, had a right sweaty walk to the cave,before getting a 'death ride' to the entrance via a tractor and sled. Unfortunately after their exploration they then ended up walking all the way back to the Mocamp.
July 13th
After saying adieu to Cevdet and the army folks we caught our arranged
lift to Gideros, a beautiful natural harbour and some 10km West of Cide.
We had been told there was a sea cave here both by Cevdet and by the
army. However, according to our new host and bar owner Muharrem Talas
the weather was too rough to visit the cave that day,we therefore had
little option but to 'slob' at the perfectly located bar, playing cards,
writing in the log book, reading or helping the fishermen untangle
their nets.
July 14th
Our host informed us of 'cok guzel' (very beautiful) caves in the hill
overlooking the bay. So we were off at 8 am with Muharrem to the lovely
cave of Findik Magaras (Cave J), named after Muharrem's dog and also
because of the large number of hazelnut shells found inside the cave.
On the way down from the cave Phil lost his way and was captured by the
undergrowth for what seemed several hours before finally emerging,
battered and torn onto the road.
Another lazy afternoon spent on the beach or in the breakers with wetsuits/skins dodging turds. As theafternoon wore on the bar (which had become our new 'camp') became deserted, presumably because everyone else foresaw another storm brewing!
THE STORM II (by Phil)
"See July 9th for generalities as regards Black Sea storms. But...
1) No chicken-egg-sized hailstones.
2) No squally wind.
3) No leaky tents.
4) No torrential rain.
Yet again we had sympathy; Whereas in Calkoy Mad Man Mustapha dragged us into his cay house, watered us and then sent us out again, here we were already in a cay house and were shown into an empty but mattressed house by Muharrem and ordered to stay there for the whole night. The gear etc. which was left out under the cay house/bar roof of netting supported by one dead branch fared remarkably well, the only casualty being damp matches".
July 15th
At long last the original reason for our visit to Gideros was fulfilled.
Muharrem deemed that the Kara Deniz (the Black Sea) was calm enough for
a boat to take us around the coast to the sea cave. Ten minutes of
rowing, made far more exciting by Steve's insistence in repeatedly
kicking the plug out, a jolt, a slip and a slide and the six of us
alighted in the cave (Cave K). Gour pooled and pigeon shitted the cave
would have proved to be a poor excuse for slobbing about had Findik cave
not been discovered. This done we returned and packed.
We arranged transport to Amasra, stopping off at the various villages on the way and inquiring about caves to the bewildered locals and getting no positive response. At Amasra (a largish port/resort, we found a nice (and cheap) place to stay at a pension on the sea front).
July 16th
Steve and Martin reached new levels of slobdom with 20 hr sleep cycles
while the more active members lay on the beach, walked around, bought
bits of wood, ate, drank, and hadTurkish baths.
The locals told us of caves up in the hills that were SO deep that they had no air in them! (far too scary for us).
July 17th
A couple of new leads for caves around Zonguldak and Eregli became the
inspiring force for the last splutters of the expedition. However,
Zonguldak failed us, as there was nowhere to stay for less than
15,000TL each a night (@£3), the mob therefore returned to the bus
station laden with icecreams and we all went to Eregli.
Eregli is also a heavily industrialised town, but it does have a nice sea front, and very few tourists. Two newly acquired guides - Big Sukru and El Chico Sukru found us accomodation at 5000tl per night in the middle of town. Had beer, had food, visited the 'Caves of Hercules' and 'Hell's Gate' in the dark and then to bed. No worries about cockroaches...it was far too horrible for them.
July 18th
Bright and early accompanied with some newly found slimeballs, we set
off to Bolucek in search of the mystery cave marked on Martin's very
large scale map...BULLSHIT!!
No cave and crap village...not even a cay house. Just dust. Bolucek by name, and Bolucek by nature. Expedition reclosed with a slam. However, not to be totally demoralised, we returned to the Heracklion Caves, and spotted an extra one missed the first night....a chance to burn more carbide if nothing else, and it was interesting archaeologically. (See Area 9).
The afternoon was spent seeing Eregli, or sleeping and tea was at Slimeball's house. The scoff was lovely, but he did make Kenneth Baker look a higher life form.
July 19th
Not much.
The day ended with a late night/early morning bus to Istanbul, we were
slowly going home.
July 20th
We arrived at the Sultanamet district of Istanbul (where the scumbo
hotels are) and soon we'd located a dorm for six a mere stone's throw
from the Blue Mosque (albeit a very long throw) for 70000TL a night
(£14) - clean and with showers but unfortunately run by nutters - with
a security system that would make Fort Knox envious.
Everybody wandered to greater and lesser extents.
July 21st
Walt and Pete bimbled most of the day finding divine cay shops, crummy
universities on a quest for maps (to no avail) desiccated botanical
establishments and the Sultan's Aphrodisiac Purveyor. Also found were:
1) sewing machine street
2) mediocre hotel street
3) too many hills street
4) A Blue Mosque, permanently in prayer mode
July 22nd
Pete and Phil vanished to Princes Isles, whilst the combined
survey/sleeping/eating teams got to grips with the Bazaar non-hagglers.
July 23rd
A general move to Topkapi Palace Museum with its exhibits of Ottoman
extremes. Pete went AWOL on museums, whilst everyone else was content
to eat and kip.
To conjure up a 'last night feeling' the log quotes P.Baarda (1990):
"So, am seated here on the top bunk overlooking frantic packing and general 'fitting of things into small holes' (P.Kay,1990). For the first time in four weeks the baggage is being reduced to 'r=2n' (I.Benson, 1990). Rationalisation in the extreme. Dirty towel? Sod it! Wellies? 'I get them free anyway' (S.Chapman, 1990). In 24 hours we should be heading for the airport with x amounts of excess weight for an unconfirmed flight. The farewell to Istanbul was to be a trip by ferry up the Bosphorus, followed by a night at the airport. Then dear Ol'Blighty. 'Oh, our last official night' (M.Holland, 1990). 'Hmmmmmm, that's right.' (M.Clark,1990)"
July 24th
The aforesaid trip down the Bosphorus was done with the addition of
Slimeball. WHAT ON EARTH WAS HE DOING THERE???
We returned to our digs and picked up our gear from Mr and Mrs 'Paranoid Schizophrenic' Osman, then we were off via a bus, a dolmus and a taxi to the airport, a total travelling cost of £4.60 for all six of us.
"My friends, my friends... No, no, no....Bad panorama, bad panorama." Mr Osman seeing Ian's underpants strung up for all the house to see. (23-7-90)
The limestone outcrops are a small part of a much more extensive area of karst, the eastern part of which it is intended to visit during the summer of 1991. A relic of the closure of the Tethys ocean, and some way north of the presumed area of the Arabian/European plate suture, the Jurassic-Cretaceous sediments, now lithified, have been faulted and upthrust, and later covered with much more recent sediments.
Unlike much of UK karst areas, Turkey has not suffered the glacial inundations which so modify the products of cave-passage development, and, reliant upon weathering by frost action and chemical means alone, results in topography which mirrors the rocks' competence to resist these modifiers.
As a consequence, therefore, good correlation is observed between the inhabited lowlands, underlain by soft silt- and mudstones, and the upland areas where it has proved inconvenient or impossible to sustain agriculture on the limestone, which is therefore left thickly forested, with some coppicing on the lower slopes.
The northerly outcrop of limestone, including areas 4 - 7 as set down in the expedition account, is heavily faulted and folded, as can be inferred from the dip/strike symbols on the map.
South of this, surrounding areas 1 and 2, is the plateau of Akkaya (which extends much further to the south than indicated), fault bounded to the north, resulting in a steep scarp, and incised by the River Irmak, where an impressive gorge is lodged.
Observations of the bedding from the villages of Acina and Derebucagi indicated that little major folding, at least in a N-S axis, is found on this plateau, where dip/strike information is obviously scarce.
Area 1, comprising the caves of Ilgarini, Skull and Snail, showed indications of a fold axis at, and parallel to, the entrance passage of Ilgarini, and later, close to the top of the ramp section in the same cave. All demonstrating an E-W trend, and suggesting that the development of the upper series was dependant upon erosion and drop out on the inside of an antiform structure.
Area 2, investigated by a scramble up the gorge from Acina, did result in the discovery of a number of small resurgences (see account), taking the form of cracks, parallel to the bedding, demonstrating the integrity of the limestone to erosion where no system of joints exists apart from those produced by bedding.
Area 3, a large granitic intrusion, represents a large topographic high, and was indicated by the locals as possessing a number of small (joint controlled ?) caves.
lgarini is not only the fourth deepest cave in Turkey, but also a site of great archeological interest. Human and animal bones are to be found anywhere in the upper levels.
There are three major chambers: the upper one connecting with both the main entrance and an impressive chimney, the middle one containing the remains of a small chapel and some rock-hewn graves, and the lower a massive shaft, the hub of the cave with four major passages joining it at different levels.
Throughout the main passages Ilgarini is of large proportions, with smaller-scale inlets of phreatic origin, and often well decorated.
Ilgarini has been surveyed by BUMAK (Bosphorus University Speleo Soc.), and a TV film was made about the visit of the Italian club GGT in 1982. However, since it is by far the best known cave in the area and no relevant literature was forthcoming from the BCRA library, it was a 'must' to visit, and survey.
Evidence of Roman influence in the construction of the 'chapel' suggests that the cave has been of importance to man for many centuries, as does what remains of huge defensive ramparts at the entrance. Such a roomy cave was probably a settlement well before that though, and a serious archaeological investigation would surely be worthwhile.
Although no digging was undertaken by the group (this being a condition
of our visit), the following points were noted:
Remember: Make it clear to the Army you intend to do no Archaeological work, otherwise they will require you to obtain permission from the District Administration Centre in KASTAMONU.
The entrance is part of a vertical cliff, close to the summit of Toprakini, a summit on the limestone plateau of Akkaya. A wide and high entrance funnels down (showing evidence of passage development along the axis of an antiform structure) to smooth-walled passage, around 15m across. This leads to a spacious chamber where the roof has collapsed along a 15 x 35m gash allowing light to filterin from the forest above.
Straight on, and slightly uphill the continuing arch passes the only water supply in the cave (a hole amongst some collapsing stonework in the floor) and enters still larger passage amongst massive formations which eventually bar the way.
Back in the roofless chamber a wide and low arch leads down a slope to the lower sections of the cave. At this point further construction is seen in the shape of a small ruin and, more impressively, a set of stonework ramps zig-zagging down the passage. Steep bedding is easily seen here, on a section of unsooted wall.
At the bottom of the set of ramps, there is a large chamber where signs of human habitation are everywhere, a small roofless building still stands at its centre, bones are everywhere presumably scattered by grave robbers and soot from countless fires have blackened the walls. This same blackening has marred formations throughout the cave, even the deepest sections below the pitch have not escaped its effects.
The continuation of the chamber is a large arched passage, with sloping sides and a central groove, leading down to the pitch-head, where the floor slopes smoothly to the vertical, here entering the lowest, and loftiest, chamber in the cave at around half the floor-ceiling height.
On the left hand side at this point, across an exposed but easily protected traverse, is seen another inlet into the chamber, with an extensively decorated apron visible from the pitch-head.
From a convenient anchor point, the slope and then the freehanging pitch of 17m is descended to a point on a slippery calcite slope. Here is the possibility of either traversing halfway around the shaft on a wide ledge, tracing the source of the flow up a passage undercutting the pitch, or continuing the descent, down a steep calcite slope to the bouldery chamber floor, which slopes away at the familiar steep angle.
Upslope, the passage quickly narrows and lowers, until the continuation is too tight, passing on the way a further inlet high in the right-hand wall. An attempt to reach this inlet proved fruitless, however, merely resulting in loss of both dignity and some covering from the treacherous slope.
Partway round the ledge traverse, some narrowphreatic tubes were found to lead down, to a small chamber choked at extremities and up, to a vantage point on a level with the pitch belay. From this exposed ledge could be seen many long, blackened stals at the roof of the shaft, though no other human-sized continuation was found. Future visits might give this area a look over for anything we missed, or were unable to enter.
The ledge traverse continues to another sizeable inlet, over a tall barrier of boulders, then widening to an area of extensive gour pools (although at this stage of the summer only a covering of calcified mud was present). This inlet eventually closes down in a calcite flow which blocks the way.
Below the pitch, the continuation is a breakdown-generated, arched passage, the sooty roof and formations contrasting with the pale floor, which is coated by slippery pink-brown calcified mud. This gradually dominates the passage, forming tier upon tier of small gour pools as the slope retains its steep angle. In this area rise several weighty stals and two spectacular columns. These are blackened and convolute, contrast, superbly against the floor and the undulating roof.
However, all good things come to an end, and Ilgarini gradually closes down to a miserable muddy puddle of barely welly depth where the roof and floor have come together in an area of greater breakdown. Littering the floor here were noted frog skeletons, slowly becoming entombed in the rising tide of silt as the water soaks away through the choke.
Further passages lead to small chambers and crawls (see survey) and one, 'The Mousetrap' leads at a gentle incline for 50m before being blocked by calcite.
At the end of the chamber, opposite the entrance, a shaft rises towards the surface, which was later located by the surface group.
The actual floor of the chamber is comprised of numerous earth/stone workings and mounds as well as many more human bones in shallow graves approximately 0.5m square. Presumably due to Skull Cave's relative innaccessability all the artifacts are of a better preserved condition than those in Ilgarini.
Following the river downstream from Acina to Hamitli, numerous cave entrances are visible on both sides of the river at various heights. Those visited were short in length and often little more than rock shelters.
A 8m overhanging climb can be overcome with the use of some friendly villagers and a newly felled tree to act as a scaling pole. The passage rapidly leads to a similar but easier climb (bolted for handline on right). The passage opens into a large chamber with dry gours and many bats (with associated guano). A spacious, well-goured passage leads on for 100m, where a number of short cross-rifts enter before a low-roofed, 1m deep pool is reached (can be traversed around on right). At the other side of the pool the cave opens out into the superbly decorated'Hall of the Unseen University', complete with deceptive acoustics. At the end of a further, well decorated passage and second chamber the way is largely blocked by calcite formations but two squeezes rejoin ata further chamber where the way on is finally blocked by a muddy ramp, leading to an overhanging boulder choke.
Before the squeezes are reached, on the right of the chamber, a wide, low, sandy-bottomed pool leads to an upstream sump of 2m diametre in clear water. This could possibly be siphoned off into the series of steeply descending gours. However, we didn't have the necessary 30m of tubing.
A tight entrance crawl after2m enters a large passage, then a wide, low chamber strewn with calcified snail shells. The climb up the calcite ramp at the end of the chamber leads to 'Dormouse Grotto', and further passage for 80m until all the ways on are blocked by sandy infill in low areas.
The cave system appears very ancient and is well decorated. The large phreatic passage throughout the cave is largely silted up and digging might well extend the cave greatly. Our guide told us that entrances to more caves existed in the hillside above the entrance to Findik Magara, but we couldn't locate any of these save one, 10m long and full of spiders.
The entrance in the rock is 2m wide and 10m high, and leads into a chamber with collapsed boulders at far end and a few large dry gours. Nothing of any interest.
The presence of these earthworms, numerous small pieces of burnt wood, hazelnut shells and many leaves in the upper series strongly suggest that the roof of the passage is in places very close to the surface. It is hypothesized that the burnt wood was formed by forest fires and somehow dropped into the cave.
Species present around and in the shallow pools;
Frog skeletons were present around the final 'sump'.
In the extended twilight zone of the cave many insect and arachnid species were present living it up in the damp and the shade. The most prominent of these were the 'harvestmen' (order Opiliones of the genus Leiobunum) which were present en masse and could run bloody fast. There was also a large number of 'true spiders' of the family Pholcidae hanging inverted in their hammock-like webs and gyrating at great speed when disturbed. These too could run far too fast for comfort.
At the far reaches of the twilight zone, in the chamber beyond the second climb were large numbers of terrestrial isopoda (woodlice-type beasties) of the group Oniscoidea, which presumably utilize the guano and its associated microflora as a food source. Although opaque in colour individuals had well developed eyes. When light was shined on them they retreated into cracks or rolled into balls indicating that they belong to the family Armadillidiidae. Their status as troglophiles rather than true cavernicoles is supported by their large reduction in numbers in the totally dark further reaches of the cave where bat guano is still plentiful.
Beyond the 'middle pool' in Onune Magara, there was no evidence seen of any bats or other higher organisms being present.
Army:
Wherever you destination, drop in at its closest army offices before
doing anything and get permission first. Let them know what you're
doing (Caving for sport isn't well known or appreciated as a pastime
in Turkey).
They will almost always try and help as much as they can - but they will want to know what you are doing in their area, and they're bound to know pretty quickly anyway. Also, having acknowledgement from the army may make the villagers more comfortable about helping you, so get it across that youve done so.
Ayran:
A sour milk drink very popular in Turkey - some people like it, some
don't. Its taste varies widely with age and origin.
Batteries:
Available in all sizes (including 'zoom' size if you hunt for them) in
any town.
Beasties:
Loads of lizards and some snakes (generally not nasty). Around Cide there
were very few insect pests (no need for repellant), lots of fireflies,
moths, butterflies and beetles all doing their own thing and looking
pretty.
Beware, aphid swarms lurk in the forests.
No sign of bears and wolves, though the locals say they're about and while at Ilgarini some scary noises were heard at night. Scorpions were found in several caves in both the Turkey '89 and '90 Expedition. The species in Northern Turkey only look horrible and aren't that nasty (unless one drops on you and runs down you neck as you crawl under it. Spiders, as ever.
There are lots of other animals, but they tend to be pretty shy as the local human population is well armed!
Bayrami:
Turkish festivals, scattered throughout the year. We were caught up in
the Kurban Bayrami, a 9 day religious festival which occured in 1990
from 29th June - 7th July (each year this festival happens 11 days or
so earlier). The Kurban (sacrifice) celebrates Abraham's killing of a
lamb instead of his son Isaac, hence it's curtains to lots of sheep in
Turkey on the first day of the festival, and lots of lamb dishes
available from then on.
The roads immediately prior to, and just after the Bayram's are very busy and dangerous as the townsfolk return to their rural backgrounds over this period. Much socialising occurs, the locals moving house to house and village to village sharing the hospitality. It seems that any speleologists in the area get dragged into the fun. Also a fine chance to ask the locals from all generations about the caves in the area between mouthfuls.
Booze:
Although Turkey is predominantly Muslim, alcohol can be bought in most
major towns/cities.
The beery products being quite passable after a week spent on a limestone plateau. Whisky, gin, vodka etc. are also available, both as local versions and more widely known versions. The national spirit is Raki, similar to Ouzo, it reeks of aniseed.
Buses/Taxis:
As well as the large comfortable air conditioned coaches that cruise
along the major intercity routes there are smaller, older and more
'exciting' local buses, (dolmus), which travel from the towns and
cities into the villages generally quite frequently.
Taxis are also common though generally a lot more costly than the dolmus.
Camping:
No problem, but, as ever, obtain permission from the landowner if
possible.
Carbide:
Available from hardware stores in industrially based towns, ask for
'carpit' it's dirt cheap (40p/kg) and used for welding.
Cay:
The Turks drink tea at any and every occasion, little and often,
generally taken very sweet. A fine tradition, most civilised.
Cay houses:
Found in most villages performing (almost) the equivalent role as pubs
in Britain, places for meeting, chewing the fat and playing cards.
Definitely only for local menfolk, though it doesn't seem a problem for
western women to gain access. You generally get your tea bought for you,
but if you have to pay yourself it's only a few pence. Very good places
to go for information, and tea.
Clothing:
Being a Muslim based culture the villagers, especially the older folk
can get offended by people wearing shorts etc. (much the same as in the
UK !), you must respect this in rural areas, but in towns things are
much more relaxed, unless you're visiting shrines, mosques etc.
Communication:
Buy an English/Turkish phrasebook in the UK, Harrops and Berlitz were
found to be most useful to us. English/Turkish dictionaries are good for
basic communication (forgetting the grammar for a while).
Many older Turks speak some German because of the close links with that country. Over the last decade, much effort has been directed at teaching English in schools, so the younger generation aregenerallyfar better than the elders at 'our' language.
Body language is very important in Turkey, much different from home, so watch and learn.
Disease:
In the sticks we had very few problems of any sort. All water being
thouroughly sterilised and hands religiously washed (usually).
It turned out that the Istanbul pathogens marshalled a tougher defence, and more man-days were lost here, pro-rata, than anywhere else.
Food:
Loads of fresh fruit and veg at bargain prices. Most food shops (there
is very little specialisation except for the Melon Man!) also sell a
wide range of dried pulses, pasta, bread, biscuits and fizzy drinks etc.
Fresh milk is very rare though UHT milk isn't. The cheeses are
generally pretty good, although relatively expensive, by Turkish
standards.
Street catering tends to be of the very passable kebab variety, although for a few coppers more a range of sit-down meals are presented.
Generally most foodstuffs available in Britain are available in Turkey in any town of any size to talk of.
Gas/stoves:
Large bottles cost £6-7 (including a deposit on the bottle itself).
Camping/Calor gas isn't readily available. Burner-roses and pot-stands
that fastenstraight onto the top of the bottle cost another couple of
quid and produce a cheap and effective stove.
Haggling:
Some people do and some people don't, it seems less widespread in
northern Turkey than inthe south.
Hospitality:
Turkish people are very hospitable, and they'll generally do everything
they can to help you. NB. they often feel it is rude to leave without
being asked to go, so ask them to go if necessary!
Maps:
Any large scale topographical maps are restricted in Turkey (the army
have excellent 1:25,000 maps they may let you have a look at), this is
the main problem about caving in Turkey. Geological maps are not
restricted, however, and the M.T.A. Geology department in Ankara may be
able to help in this line.
Methylated spirits:
This is sold everywhere in recycled Raki (see booze) bottles though only
its colour and preferable taste give the game away. It costs about
$1/litre. We took two Trangias with us and when used in conjunction with
the gas stove we coped very well with feeding eight people.
Mocamp:
A range of rather up-market campsites known throughout Turkey, you dont
even need a tent!
Moustaches:
Very common in Turkey, definite status symbols, plan ahead, grow one now.
M. T. A.:
(Mineral Research and Exploration of Turkey, H.Q.)
M. T. A. Genel Mudurlugu
Jeoloji Etudleri Dairesi
Ankara
Turkey
This is the place to write to requesting geological information and possibly other help when organising an expedition.
Newspapers:
Rupert Murdoch is surely jealous! An English language paper is available,
The Turkish Daily News.
Personal Transport:
Strange as it may seem, car hire, if arranged from the Turkish end is
much more expensive than if it had been arranged at the UK end,
prohibitively so in fact (at least if you're poor students).
So, unless you choose to rely on public transport, plan accordingly ie. Book a car in the U.K.
Shops:
Seem to be open most of the time.
Vegetation:
Along much of the upland parts of the Black Sea coast the cover is
virtually untouched primary beech forest with a very dense understorey
and it is consequently very difficult to divert from any previously cut
path without painful knowledge of the fact.
Weather:
Seems to rain at least once a week, we experienced a couple of exquisite
storms. The temperatures never got unbearable and remained generally
very pleasant when combined with an almost constant breeze which runs
on and off the Black Sea.
Women:
Some Turkish men have a 'distorted' view of your average "Western
Woman" (Most don't), so a good pair of scissors carried at all times is
not a bad idea even if it is only to snip off their moustaches. The
Turkish women were seen to do a rather uneven percentage of everyday
work!
Very useful Turkish phrases (especially for University caving club expeditions)
We saw and spoke to the Officer ..... ....., in Cide.
Biz Cide'de jandarma Tegmeni ..... .....'i gorduk va kenustuk.
He told us that there is no need of permission for
visiting/camping/photography.
Tegmen, bize, gezmek, gormek, fotograf celmek, kemp yapmak icis
izine gerek etmadigini soyleck.
We want to camp near the village, without causing any problem to the
villagers.
Koydeki insaslara problem elmujacak sekilck koyun yakuinda, kamp kurmak
istiyaruz.
We are members of a caving club in England and would like to see some
other caves around if there are any.
Biz inglitere'de universitede bir magara arastirma kulubunun uyeleriyiz.
Cevrede baska magara varsa gormek isteriz.
Additionally, Pete Kay, Phil Baarda and Walt Holland were supported by The County College of The University of Lancaster.
Further sponsorship was not applied for due to the reconnaissance nature of the expedition, and its necessary weight restrictions.
Without going into detail, total costs per head, inclusive of transport, insurance, gear hire, marmite, accomodation etc. Were approximately £340, before allowing for outside support.
Craig Bartlett. Paul Ibberson. Howard Jones. Zoe Wareham.
In Turkey:
Dr Nuri Guldali.
The Turkish Army at Cide especially K.Rifki Ayan.
Y Cevdet Usta.
All the villagers of Derebucagi, Acina, Hamitli, Calcoy, and Gideros
especially Mustafa Kus, Omer Gumes, Muharrem Talas.
El Grande and El Chico Sukru.
and last but by no means least Hasan Bay.