LUSS in Spain: Tackle Requirements

Index

  • Dossers Delight
  • Sima 56


    Dossers Delight

    The following infomation is taken from the publication 'LUSS 4'

    Pitch Name Rope Belays Comments
    12 Spider 14 2s
    3 7 2s Climb
    25 32 3s, 1T
    34 The Ore Chute 38 4s, 1T
    +9 1st Bolt Climb Ladder Spreader Old Beal in situ
    50 Very Vunerable 70 6s, 1W
    7 as above 2s Continuation of Very Vunerable
    45 Pittsburg 50 4s
    51 The Bus 60 3s, 1P
    15 20 1W, 1T, 1s
    37 40 3s, 1P
    28 30 3s
    22 2nd Bolt Climb 40 3s, 1T 11mm Bluewater in situ
    4 5 1T, 1s
    9 Dosser's Despair 11 1W, 1s Reb. in calcite
    11 ( The 15 1W, 2s
    11 ( Indelible 14 2s
    4 ( Escalator 6 1W, 1T
    67 Murder Most Foul 73 1T, 1W, 2s
    5 10 1W, 2T
    41 Mutiny 47 2s
    5 7 1W, 1T
    6 9 1W, 1s
    3 10 1W, 1T Traverse line helps (included)
    60 The Bounty 60 2s
    26 One Step Beyond 35 2s, N
    7 8 1W
    8 Glory days 11 1W, 1T
    10 15 1T, 1W
    6 The Natural Thing 15 N, 1T
    6 12 2T
    2 5 1T
    27 ( Thunder Down 30 N, 2W
    25 ( under 30 2s, 1W
    3 4 1T
    82 ( Pozo de los 95 5s
    40 ( Picos 45 2s, 1T
    9 12 2s

    Key

    T - tape,
    s - spit,
    W - Wire,
    N - Natural


    Sima 56

    The following table is taken from the book 'SIMA 56'. A joint text by Lancaster University Speleological Society(LUSS) and Seccion Espeleologia Ingenieros Industriales(SEII). Authored by D. Checkley, H. Jones and S. Foster.

    Explanation of the following system for describing the pitches:
    Details given below:

    Boulder: 2s 3m traverse, 2s: -9m 2s: -40m pendulum


    s - spit
    -9m - Depth, ie. 9m below the first bolt(s)
    + - up
    C - Climb


    Ref. Pitch(m) Rope Number
    of Spits
    Comments
    Entrance
    P3 1 Boulder, 1s
    1 P122 155 6 Rope from P3: 2s:-1m 1s:-28m 3s
    2 P47 65 6 Boulder: 2s: 3m traverse, 2s-9m 2s:-40m pendulum
    P5 8 2 2s
    P8 10 2 2s (Best Laddered)
    C2 1 1s, short sling
    C4 Natural, 3m sling
    P4 9 2 2s (Best Laddered)
    3 P14 25 3 1s: 5m traverse, 2s:-14 pendulum
    C+7 Climb up
    P12 14 1 1s (can be climbed)
    C4 Climb down
    P8 2 2s
    P15 25 3 Rope from P8: 2s: -5m 1s
    Humbug Hall
    P8 15 2 2s: and traverse line around head of P60
    C+4 climb up
    C+5 climb up
    4 P15 25 Numerous dubious natural belays - tapes required
    5 P24 33 3 Boulder: 1s in roof: -8m 1s -18m 1s
    P3 1 Flake and 1s
    P12 20 2 Rope from P3: 1s: -8m 1s
    6 P11 20 3 1s: 4m traverse 1s: -8m 1s
    P16 20 1 Boulder: -3m 1s
    C2 Climb down
    P13 18 Naturals
    7 P10 13 2 2s and 3m wire over edge
    7 P9 12 2 2s
    8 P29 35 1 Naturals: -4m 1s
    C+12 Climb up
    P12 14 2 1s: 2m traverse: 1s
    P16 22 1 Natural, 1s
    C10 12 Natural, handline
    P5 10 1 Natural, 1s
    9 P16 25 4 1s: 2m traverse 1s in roof: -9m 1s on ledge to left: 1s
    C3 Climb down
    C2 Climb down
    C2 Climb down
    P29 32 2 2s and tape
    P12 16 1 Natural, 3m traverse 1s
    10 P19 23 1 Natural, 1s
    10 P12 15 1 Natural, 1s
    Dripping Blood Passage
    P6 8 2 2s
    P36 42 2 2s
    P8 10 2 2s
    P10 12 2 2s
    P12 15 1 Traverse over P38, 1s and 2 naturals
    C20 Climb down
    P12 15 Naturals
    11 P39 45 1 Naturals: -7m 1s
    C4 Climb down
    P8 Naturals
    P14 27 Rope from P8 and naturals
    P5 8 Naturals
    P10 Naturals
    P9 24 1 Rope from P10 and 1s
    C3 Climb down, tape advisable
    P4 7 Naturals
    P8 Naturals
    P7 1 Rope from P8 and 1s
    P5 31 Rope from P7 and naturals
    P15 22 1 1s
    P4 Natural
    P6 Rope from P4 and natural
    P13 32 1 Rope from P6 and 1s
    C3 Climb down
    P2 1 Natural and 1s
    12 P8 18 1 Rope from P2 and 1s
    P17 22 1 Natural and 1s
    C2 Tape
    C3 Climb down
    P5 1 Natural and 1s
    P40 Rope from P5 and natural
    13 P46 1 Rope from P40 and 1s
    P53 145 2 Natural: -6m 1s: -14m 1s: -23m natural: -40m 1s. Rope from P46
    P8 10 Rope from P53 and natural
    14 P10 15 1 Natural: 4m traverse 1s
    C5 Climb down
    15 P9 13 1 Natural and 1s

    References

    Ref.Pitch(m)Details
    1122 Highly fractured rock, so all three bolts at -28m should be used. Beware of loose rock.
    247 An awkward pitch with some very soft rock. Each rebelay has two bolts, which should always be used together.
    314 Pitch out of the Slasher. This is fairly tight at the top and a traverse line is very usedful.
    415 Death Wish Pitch! The rock is unsuitable for bolts, or any sort of belay. 50mm tape belays should be used and all belays treated as dubious.
    524 Fractured rock means bolts are not in optimum positions. The rope gets very muddy.
    611 Loose rock.
    710,9 Gets wet
    829 Poor pitch head, The rope gets very muddy.
    919 Rebelay bolts are on the ledge on the left, looking down. This pitch gets wet.
    1019,12 These get very wet.
    1139 Care is needed with loose rock at the top.
    128 Very poor bolt in place.
    13140 More rebelays are required. Pitch head is tight.
    1411 Wet.
    159 Leads straight into the sump.


    LUSS@lancaster.ac.uk